Spectra Spec-tacular: Part 1 (plus piping mini-tutorial)

Almost two years ago, I completed my first cosplay: Luna Lovegood’s dress from Bill and Fleur’s wedding in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows. You can read all about the (rather haphazard) construction here. I picked that dress because it seemed simple, and I though I had quite a bit of sewing experience, I was only just wading into the world of making my own patterns.

Looking back two years later, I can hardly believe how far I’ve come in such a short time. Two years ago, it was the coat that scared me away from Luna’s iconic outfit from Half-Blood Prince. I knew that if I did that outfit, I would want a coat as similar to hers in shape as possible, and I definitely didn’t trust myself to make that pattern up. Now that I’m doing it, I’m glad I waited. I don’t know how I would have done the construction then, but I know it’s better now!

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I stared at pictures of this coat for a long time, and watched the scene it appears in over and over. There is never an unobscured shot of it. She is always holding the Quibblers, or has her arm up, or the shot is too close up to see, or it’s dark. Luckily, when she finds Harry on the floor of Malfoy’s compartment on the Hogwarts Express, she holds the magazines enough to one side that you can get a pretty good idea of how this all goes together. After all that, here is the quick sketch that I came up with:

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It’s basically a little bolero jacket with a pleated skirt portion attached. The placket for the buttonholes is part of the same piece as the pleated portion. It has a large collar and sleeves that have a gathered cap which is tall, rather than full. I assume that the pocket flaps are false, since They seem to flatten the pleats along the bottom edge more than they would if they actually opened, and I have no idea why anyone would decide to put actual pockets through three layers of pleated coating.

I draped the body on my dress form, then used those pieces to make a quick mockup. It fit quite well right out of the gate (not that it’s a particularly fitted garment). All I had to do was adjust the front placket and the shape of the center front edge of the bolero portion just a smidgen so that the closure wouldn’t gape between buttons.

I spent a long time staring at pink coating fabrics before I picked a pink, white, and burgundy wool blend from Mood Fabrics. The threads are a bit larger than the ones in Luna’s coat, but it was the only fabric I could find that had all three colors I was looking for that wasn’t a regular pattern like plaid. I thought about going with a plainer pink fabric, but I figured with Luna, always err on the side of more out-there. Even though it’s not exact, I also love the addition of the sparkly bronze bits in the weave as well. Makes it a bit more magical?

The lining is a deep purple linen/rayon blend from Joann.

I had to think long and hard about the order of operations on this jacket, since the construction is a bit odd. The bolero and the pleated skirt aren’t sewn together by a normal seam, but by the zigzag detail about an inch in from the edge of the bolero.

So, up to a certain point, I needed to prepare the two sections separately. I started by sewing the skirt fronts and back together, and pressing the bottom and center front edges of both the lining and fabric under. Then I placed the lining on the fabric, slightly offset, and slip stitched the two together.

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I then folded the pleats and basted them in place ,and the skirt portion was ready to go.

The bolero is a bit more exciting: its edges get piped with patterned piping! I scoured Joann and found one that had a pattern with a lot of the same colors as Luna’s piping: purple, coral/orange, and white.

But before all the fun, I had to put the pieces together. It is very simple: no darts or anything, just one back piece and two front pieces.

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Because the edge of the bolero will over hang the skirt portion a bit, it needs a facing so that if the underside is ever seen, it looks the same as the outside. This is where the piping comes into play:

Mini Tutorial: Piping

Step 1: Cut fabric into bias strips. I only cut mine an inch wide, but to be on the safe side, I would recommend cutting 1.5 inch wide strips. Bias strips are cut at a 45 degree angle to the grain of the fabric. Since fabric stretches more on the bias, this allows the piping to go around curves without bunching.

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Step 2:

If you need lengths of piping longer than the strips you were able to cut from your fabric, you will need to sew some together. The best way to sew  bias strips together is to to it at an angle–you may have noticed this if you’ve ever paid attention to the seams in your commercial bias tape. You will do this by placing the diagonal edges of your strips right side to right side at a right angle as shown below. The pointy ends will hang over on each side.

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Sewing the seam like this means that you are sewing with the grain of the fabric, which will help the seam disappear. Since the seam is at an angle once you open up the pieces and press it, it also distributes the bulk of the seam allowance, making the join more, well, seamless.

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Step 3:

Fold your strip in half around a piece of cord in whatever size you would like your piping to be. For garments, I usually opt for ordinary butcher’s string/kitchen twine. It’s a good size, it’s very flexible, and best of all–it’s extremely cheap!

Make sure that from the bottom of the string to the raw edges of the fabric is at least as wide as your seam allowance–I had to offset my edges to make sure of this, but that’s ok, because none of this will show in the end!

Using the zipper foot of your sewing machine, stitch through the fabric right next to the cord but NOT through it. I always move my needle as close to the cord as I can get it by adjusting the “stitch width” setting. The closer you can sew to your cord, the neater your piping will look and the happier you will be!

 

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When you have sewn all of your piping, put a ruler of measuring tape up right against the bottom of the cord and make sure that your seam allowance portion is the same as the seam allowance your are using for your project (1/2″ in my case). Trim off any excess. This may seam tedious, but I promise you won’t regret it!

Inserting the piping:

Step 1: Take one of the two pieces of fabric that will form the seam where the piping will sit. Pin (or Wonderclip!) your piping to your garment. Because you’ve trimmed your piping seam allowance to be the same as your garment seam allowance, this means you just need to line up your piping edge and garment edge just as you would if it were two pieces of fabric. The bottom of your piping will automatically be right at the seam line.

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Now, at this point, you could just sandwich the other piece of fabric on top and go to town, but I find that if I do that there’s always at least one spot where the piping shifted slightly and went under the needle by accident, meaning you’ll have to either live with wonky piping or tear that portion out and do it again. But, this can be avoided! Follow these next three steps and you can have perfect piping every time!

Step 2:

Still using the zipper foot, sew the piping to your one piece of fabric (in the case the outer fabric of the bolero), still keeping the needle as close to the cord as possible, right on top of the stitching that holds your piping together.IMG_2848.jpg

Step 3:

Pin the second piece of fabric (in this case the bolero facing) to the first, just as you would if you were sewing the seam as normal without piping.

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Step 4:

Turn the work over so that the seam that holds the piping on is facing up. Sew right along the same line. (My fabric was so heavy that the zipper food became awkward, so I switched back to the basic foot. You may find that continuing to use the zipper foot works best for you.) Doing this ensures the piping sits exactly where you wanted, and never either gets squished in the seam, or extends too far out, forming unsightly lumps and bumps.

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Perfect!

As long as I was piping things, I also made the false pocket flaps. In addition to the piping, these get a row of decorative zigzag stitches about an inch in from the edge. Once they were on and I stepped back, I realized that just one row of zigzags didn’t show up much against such a busy fabric, so on the collar and the bolero, I ended up doing two rows right on top of each other.

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And then I draped the collar, since I was too lazy to do that back when I was makign the rest of the mockup.

The collar is made in the same way as the pocket flaps, with piping and zigzag details. When it was made, I basted it to the neckline of the bolero.

I was running low of fabric when I did the collar, and worried about having enough for the sleeves, so the underside is more of the crazy fabric from the piping!

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So, both the upper and lower parts of the coat were basically ready (minus the sleeves–I decided that it would be easier to attach sleeves to the full coat than to worry about them getting in the way while I tried to attach the two halves.

After doing one row of the decorative zigzagging around the edge of the bolero, I pinned the lower half inside of the upper one, making sure that it overlapped the zigzagging completely.

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And then I simply sewed a second row of zigzags right on top of the first, which made it much more simple than if I had wanted just one row of stitching!

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Nearing completion!

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I drafted a sleeve pattern and then tested it several time with alterations in between until I was happy with this one:

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When the sleeves were on, I sewed a lining for the upper portion of the coat. I machine sewed it to the neckline, with the collar sandwiched between, then pressed it down and anchored it with a row of stitches below the collar. Then I just turned the jacket inside out and folded the edges of the lining under and slipstitched in place.

Finally, I made a pair of decorative bands for the ends of the sleeves. After attempting one, I realized that if I piped them the same way as everything else, I couldn’t turn them back right-side-out. The piping made them too stiff, and the fabric was so thick, but so loosely woven, that I ended up with an unraveling mess when  I tried! So, I sewed the piping to one piece (I used a quarter inch seam allowance), then pressed the seam allowance to the wrong side and covered the raw edges with a piece of bias tape sewn along the back of the strap.

The straps are sewn down, and the buckle is entirely decorative, since the finished straps were far too thick to be able to go through the buckles twice!

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After that it was just buttons and buttonholes:

And a bit of top stitching to smooth out the edges and the pleats:

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And we’re finished! Now I just have to get the rest of the costume finished in time for Lexington Comic and Toy Con this weekend!

Now back to sewing, painting, knitting, (and, of course, hunting wrackspurts) to make everything as magical as possible!

Men Can Be Fashion Plates Too!

I may have gone a little insane when I was making Brandon’s Christmas present this year. My intention was to make him a new green linen Regency tailcoat, since most of our events are in the muggy Kentucky summer. But, I wanted to do a new style for him, which meant making some changes to the pattern. For that, I needed to be able to try a mockup on him. So, I decided to give him the the materials to be made up into a coat in January. But just a pile of fabric and thread and buttons didn’t seem like a very fun present, so I thought, the fashion plate I’m working off of has some really great trousers too, why not make him a pair of trousers so that he has something finished to open as well? Great, trousers don’t take too long to make, what a great plan.

So, I’m partway through making the trousers, when I happen to be digging through my stash and notice some Robin’s egg blue linen that I’ve been meaning to make into a waistcoat, and I think how nice the Robin’s egg blue would look with the rest of the outfit. So, in a moment of insanity, I stop working on the trousers and start making a waistcoat instead. At the moment, I cannot remember my justification for needing to put down the trousers in order to make the waistcoat first, but that’s what I did. So, in short, Brandon got an entire new outfit for Christmas. The outfit is based off of this fashion plate from 1814:

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Since I was working on the waistcoat and trousers in secret, I didn’t take many pictures of the process, but here are the few that I have:

Here I’m working on the waistcoat pockets.

And here’s the finished pocket:

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I made Death’s Head buttons for the waistcoat. It’s always fun to learn a new skill, and it was a fun demo to do while interpreting at Locust Grove!

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And here’s the finished waistcoat! It’s made with the Kannik’s Korner Single-Breasted Man’s Waistcoat pattern. Next time I make one, I’ll have to do a better job of taking progress photos.

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Next came the trousers. They are Past Pattern’s Small Fall Trowsers with a slight adjustment to raise the fall high enough to be covered by the high waistlines of 1816.

 

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Here I’m working on the fall welts. Using the wig head as a third hand turned out to be a great idea–I could work much faster with less strain on my hands, which was good since Christmas was now fast approaching!
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Attaching the fall welts.
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The trousers also have a snazzy blue stripe up the sides.

Here are the finished trousers (I haven’t put suspender buttons on them yet, so they’re a tad droopy):

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Once we got back from our Christmas trip home to Michigan, I could begin work on the  coat. I started with Laughing Moon #122, then modified to the front to close all the way up at an angle and lowered the waist so that it would cover the bottom of the waistcoat, as in the fashion plate above.

Somewhere between the second and third photos I made a mockup and tried it on Brandon, then made more adjustments to the pattern piece. Once I was happy with how the mockup fit, I got to start working with the real fabric, a gorgeous evergreen linen from Renaissance Fabrics.

If you’ve ever done any tailoring you know that putting the pieces together is the bit that takes the least time! Most of the work happens when prepping the individual pieces for assembly: padstitching collars and lapels, interfacing pieces, adding pockets, it all adds up, and you’re halfway through a project before it starts to look like anything’s happened!

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Marking the collar interfacing for padstitching.
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And padstitching the collar. I actually love this part.

Catchstitching is the magical technique that keeps your interfacing firmly in place and flat while not showing as a tell-tale line on the outside of your garment.

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It’s also my favorite part of tailoring.

The tail pockets in this pattern are an odd little precursor to welt pockets. Here, I’ve attached the inner flap to the tail, and am about to attach the pocket bag by stitching on the blue lines. When that’s done, I slash down the middle and push the entire pocket bag through the slit, which finishes the edges, although not particularly nicely. There’s a reason we invented welt pockets.

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Here’s the finished pocket with both flaps:

You must also interface the facing! Jacket fronts must be stiff or you look like a schlump! Since this part has to go over the shoulder, I padstitch over my leg, which forces the piece to take on a curve. You can see that it’s nice and smooth when curved, but when you straighten it out, it gets all puckered.

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Where would we be without more catchstitching? In the land of loose, floppy interfacing, that’s where.
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Sewing together the back facings. Bonus: I finally replaced my dead sewing machine light and IT’S SO GREAT!

Once the body was all put together, I tried it on Brandon. The facing was rolling a bit and the collar was being a bit floppy, but nothing a bit of prickstitching won’t fix!

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Here’s the back facing after I tacked down the point to the seam. All of the seams that aren’t covered by facings are flat-felled except the armscyes, which are too bulky with all the gathering. Them I trimmed and blanket stitched to keep them neat.

Down to the finishing touches!

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Buttons covered!
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Buttonholes marked!
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I even ponied up for beautiful silk buttonhole thread and it is definitely worth it!

Here’s Brandon in the finished ensemble! Can’t wait until he gets to wear that nice linen jacket in the hot KY summer!

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Locust Grove Interpreter Auditions

It’s that time of year again, and the Locust Grove Interpreter Corps are looking for new recruits!

The interpreter corps is an all-volunteer group who help teach guests to Locust Grove all about the history of the site, the family, Louisville history, Kentucky history, and US history through first person interpretation. (Don’t worry if you don’t know much about the history now–we’re always learning!) We spend our time at events as people from 1816 Louisville, and interact with guests as if it is the past.

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Interpreter Jos, as Miss Eliza Bulleit, teaching young guests to play a new game.

I absolutely love every event I get to do with the interpreter corps–they aren’t just a group of fellow volunteers, there some of my favorite people and dearest friends. When my now-husband and I moved here, they welcomed us with open arms as soon as we walked in for our own auditions, and we’ve been part of it ever since!

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1816 sisters! Interpreters Laura and Carol as Mrs. Ann Gwathmey and Mrs. Elizabeth Ferguson. Photo by Kara Hamilton

The Interpreter Corps doesn’t work from a set script, but are part of a constantly evolving improv based on our ever-growing knowledge about life in 1816, and about Louisville’s history in particular. Every interpreter brings a unique set of skills and interests to the group, whether it be playing an instrument, knitting, embroidery, or the ability to spin a good yarn (literally or figuratively). We are all constantly learning from one another as our research grows and our interpretations develop.

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Yours Truly as Mrs. Elizabeth Taylor and Mia as Mrs. Lucy Croghan demonstrating tambour embroidery and knitting to a visitor at a special event at the Speed Art Museum.

We will be holding auditions on Saturday, Feb. 25 from 12-2.

We have an especial need for young people this year, as many of our younger members have aged up to new parts or gone off into the wide world, so if you know kids, or parents of kids ages 11-19 who might be interested, please pass this on to them! Never fear, there are also plenty of parts for adults. Here are the parts we are currently casting:

Male: Edmund Croghan (age 11); Charles Croghan (age 14); Nicholas Croghan (age 14); William Croghan, Jr. (age 22); George Croghan (age 25); Zachary Taylor (age 32); Thomas Bullitt (age 39); John Gwathmey (age 42); William Clark (age 46); Judge Fortunatus Cosby (age 49) Aaron Fontaine (age 63); General George Rogers Clark (age 64); William Croghan, Sr. (age 64); Richard Taylor (age 70)
Female: Emily Taylor (age15); Ann ‘Nancy’ Thruston (age 17); Eliza Sydnor Cosby (age 17); Sarah Bailey Taylor (Age 17); Ann Croghan (age 19); Elizabeth Thruston Fontaine (age 45)

We are also seeking a regular volunteer interested in training to demonstrate as an out-of-character (third person) interpreter in our hearth kitchen.

The interpreters meet regularly to train in the history of the period and the family, as well as workshops on period language and manners, physical characterization and improvisation, and clothing of the period, and appear at events throughout the year.

You can find complete audition information on the Facebook Event page.

For more information on Locust Grove please visit www.locustgrove.org or https://locustgrovelouisville.wordpress.com/, or email Brian Cushing at bcushing@locustgrove.org.

Please pass this information on to anyone you think might be interested!

I hope to see you in the Corps this year!

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Come in!
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Join us!

All photographs by Fox and Rose Photography unless otherwise noted.

Snow White Riding Outfit 4: Finishing Touches

I was finally able to get back to work on Snow this month, after my break waiting for the final materials to arrive turned into a break to finish Christmas gifts! Snow is finally finished. I only have dress-form photos at the end of this blog because next week I have a studio photoshoot scheduled, so keep an eye on my Facebook and Instagram for the good stuff!

If you read Parts 2 & 3 of this blog, you know that things were nearly finished–the pants were fronted with suede, the skirt drapes and the jacket were made. All I needed was to bind and bead the jacket, and make the belt. (I’m also making a little costume for my bow, since Snow’s is wrapped in leather and fur, but I’ll show that off at the photoshoot.)

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Here’s the real costume, designed by Eduardo Castro

It took forever to get a hold of faux leather seam binding in exactly the right shade of off white. It turns out that not a lot of places sell faux leather binding at all, and those that do mostly have tan and black. I finally had to order off white from the seller Neotrims on Amazon (they also sell on eBay), and while it’s the perfect solution, it took weeks to get here–most of the reason for how delayed this blog is!

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Sewing faux leather binding turned out to be another one of those places where Wonderclips are invaluable. Since this binding is basically just one strip of double-sided poly leather with a slit down the center of one side to facilitate folding, you can’t sew it like fabric bias tape. It doesn’t open up.

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So I just clipped it onto the edges of the jacket and slip stitched each side. At first I tried sewing both sides at once by putting the needle all the way through the jacket and both edges of the tape, but I lost so much time constantly turning the piece this way and that to make sure the needle was coming through in exactly the right place, and fighting to pull it through that many layers that I decided just sewing each side seperatly would be more efficient.

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As usual, Marionette was determined to help out by sitting exactly where the project needed to go.

Once I had put binding on the jacket and sleeve pieces, I put in grommets to attach the sleeves to the jacket.

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Putting in grommets is very satisfying, as it’s one of the very rare times in sewing when it’s acceptable to hit your project with a hammer.
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Don’t listen to that nonsense on the package about using scissors! I always open up holes for eyelets or grommets with an awl, which doesn’t sever the threads of the fabric, and therefore keeps the hole much stronger. It also alleviates the risk of opening a hole to big for the eyelet, thereby ruining the project.

Here’s the jacket body with binding and eyelets:

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It took me forever to find a bead/stud that I liked for the centers of the diamonds. It is almost impossible to tell exactly what they are either in the show or in any photos of the costume I’ve seen. Eventually, I found these small rhinestone shank buttons on Etsy.

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Here is a link to the seller’s page.

She didn’t have a big enough listing of them up, but she was very helpful and was able to special order 550 of them for me from her supplier. They were definitely the priciest part of this costume simply due to the quantity, but I think it was worth it.

Beading, as usual, took much longer than planned…

Because I decided to leave beads off of the area under the belt and down the center of the back (to avoid getting them tangled in my wig), I ended up using a total of 424 beads.

I left attaching the sleeves until later and moved on to the final piece of the puzzle: the belt.

I started with measurements. With the jacket on, my waist measures 30″, so I needed something with a 30″ finished length, plus a tail. It needed to be slightly narrower in the center than two of my rhinestone brooches, since they hang over the edges ever so slightly.

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I found these brooches at a shop that sells all sorts of stuff for events, and at less than $5 apiece, I don’t think I could have done better!

To make the belt pattern, I used a piece of stiff buckram interfacing. I measured and sketched out the shape I needed, then cut it out and tested it with the jacket.

After a few minor adjustments, I used that pattern to cut out the outer layer (silver metallic knit from Joann), and an inner layer of muslin, sandwiched the interfacing between them, and basted, leaving one end free to attach the buckle. The other end got two layers of off-white leather for the holes.

I them bound the length between buckle and leather with the same off-white pleather binding as the jacket.

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While I was putting on the binding, I also added a loop to hold the excess length of the belt. It is a piece of the binding folded in half and sewn into the binding at the back of the belt. It then wraps around the front of the belt, and back under the binding on the other side.

When the belt was finished, I simply pinned the brooches in place.

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The final step was to attach the sleeve pieces to the jacket. I used a worsted weight cotton yarn since I was having trouble finding any twisted cord of the right size and flexibility. The yarn is tied in a cow hitch (both ends through the grommet, then pulled through the loop left on the other side) around the upper portion, then both ends are put through the corresponding grommet on the lower portion and tied off. The dangling ends are each adorned with a silver beadHere.

Here it is, all finished! I’ll have awesome photos of me in the full costume in a couple of weeks, so check back, or follow me on Facebook and Instagram (@fabricnfiction)!

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Regency Ruffles Part 1

Due to the perils of internet shopping (I had to send back my faux leather seam binding for a different color), Snow White is still on hold for a bit, so I got to start something new. Believe it or not, I haven’t had a new Regency dress since my grey one last August! I have the fabric for quite a few stashed around the house, and it was definitely time to put some to use!

The dress is based on this fashion plate, which I have been coveting since the moment I saw it for it’s over-the-top ruffliness. I don’t wear many ruffles in my everyday life, but in the Regency I cannot resist them. The floofier the better.

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I’ll definitely have to add that wonderful matching eyelet lace  cap and ruff set to my wardrobe sometime soon as well!

I picked up the fabric for this dress at the Jane Austen festival in July. It’s a green cotton with a dainty white striped pattern. I’m hand-sewing the entire dress, partly to practice techniques, and partly because I just felt like it.

The bodice pattern is my basic Regency bodice that I’ve been adjusting and altering and playing with since I started doing this, but with the neckline brought up nice and high. I love a high necked Regency gown largely because it’s unexpected for a lot of people. We see lots of films set in the period with low-necked gowns filled in with a fichu or chemisette, while high-necked gowns are usually put on old or frumpy characters. I like being able to show people that a high-necked gown is just as much a pretty garment for fashionable young women as for spinsters.

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No need to pattern the skirt: I just use measurements. The back is just a long piece the width of the fabric, and the skirt length plus seam and hem allowance. The front is as wide as the fabric at the bottom and as wide as my seam-to-seam measurement at the top. I usually curve the waistline up a bit at the edges, which helps the skirt bell out. The center of the skirt and the edges should be the same length as the skirt back.

The skirt seams are sewn with mantua-maker’s seams, an ingenious device that has mostly fallen out of modern sewing. You simply put the fabric pieces right side to right side as normal, then, treating the two edges as one, fold the whole thing up twice as though you are making a narrow hem. Then sew the seam with a nice small whip stitch, making sure you go through both layers of fabric and the edge of the fold. It lets you sew a fully finished seams with a single row of stitches.

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The bodice is also constructed in a way that cuts out extra rows of stitching as much as possible. I first learned about this technique at a workshop given by Burnley & Trowbridge in Williamsburg, which you can read more about here.

The back/side back fabric and lining is all put together with a single seam. The stack goes fabric side back right side to fabric back right side, back lining wrong side against that, then side back lining right side against back lining right side. The side back fabric and lining should be wrong-side out on either side of the stack. You then sew the seam as normal and open the side backs out and press.

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The fronts are then attached by treating the front fabric and lining as one piece and sewing it to the side back fabric only. You then press the seam allowance toward the back and finish the seam by pulling the lining over the seam and folding under the seam allowance so that you can slip stitch it to the seam.

With the major bodice construction done, I got some help draping a yoke to hold the  bodice ruffles.

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You can see in this close-up that the ruffles are attached to a separate yoke, so that they don’t get bumpy and weird as they go over the tops of the sleeves.

The ladies of the Locust Grove first-person interpreter corps often get together for sewing, and a few of us were sewing together on Sunday, so my friend Amy was able to give me a hand.

The y0ke is made of three pieces, one in the front and two in the back, with a seam at the shoulder, which will be mostly concealed by ruffles.

That’s where I am for now. Since I’m hand sewing, the process is a bit slower than usual, but hopefully the detail in the finished product will be worth it!

I’ll be back next week with more progress on this dress, and as soon as I can finish Snow White, I will!

Hannah

 

 

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Snow White Riding Outfit 3: Not Just the Jacket

Since I can’t do anything else on the jacket until the binding and beads arrive (cross your fingers for some time next week!), I’ve been working on other parts of the costume instead.

Snow’s pants are your basic stretchy riding pants, but with a false front to make them look as though they are made of suede.The suede piece covers just the fronts of the pants from waist to where they go into the boots. The join is easily visible in the character shots. I assume the costume department didn’t expect anyone to notice that Snow’s pants weren’t all suede, but it’s easy to see in the show with all of the action she has in this costume.

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I ordered my pants from State Line Tack. I basically just picked the cheapest pair of light tan riding pants I could find. The faux suede is from Fashion Fabrics Club.

I started out by just cutting two rectangles of suede a little wider and a little longer than I needed to cover half of the fronts. I put on the pants and pinned the suede to it, marking on the suede where the seams were underneath so that I knew where the finished edges of the piece should be. I did this with the pants on because I needed them to be stretched so that I knew everything would fit once the suede was on.

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I used the first piece to cut out a symmetrical second piece and sewed them together at the center front.

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I then hemmed all the edges with a double row of stitching, first cutting out the corners so that my poor machine didn’t have to sew over four layers of this stuff!

At that point, all that was left was to attach the false front to the pants, which meant making sure that I had the pants stretched enough. I started by sewing the center front seam to the center front seam of the pants. The pants don’t stretch as much vertically as they do horizontally, so that was pretty easy, and it gave me somewhere to work from.

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I also checked to make sure the outer edge was hitting about where I wanted it.

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I put the pants on and had Brandon mark where the bottoms of the false front should hit.IMG_2475.jpg

From there, I sewed them on down the inseam, careful to stretch the pants just a touch so that the ends landed right on Brandon’s line. Then I put the pants on again, and had Brandon pull the outer edge as far as it would go and mark where that should fall so that the suede would be as tight as possible when I had it all sewed down.

Here’s the finished product. I didn’t manage to get it quite as tight as I hoped, but I think the backs of the pants end up stretching a bit more once the suede is on to make up for the fact that the front doesn’t stretch as much anymore. Oh well, at least most of the loose bits will be covered by other parts of the costume!

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For some reason teh pants look very yellow in this photo. In reality they are quite a bit browner than the waistband.
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The boots are Yuu Soo Riding Boots from JC Penny

After the pants I moved on to the skirt drapes. They are made of pincord fabric, and lined with the leftover suede from the pants to keep them stiff.

After making a basic waistband, I draped them on my dressform, careful to keep a large seam allowance around the edges so that I could wrap them around the lining and finish. They are very simple shapes, just wonky rectangles with one little pleat in the front and one in the back for shaping and drape.

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The fabric is the same size as the lining at the top, but gets wider as it goes down so that it has a bit of drape separate from the stiff lining. Since that meant I couldn’t pin them together laying completely flat, I attached the two by pinning the seam allowances away then lining up the lining piece with each edge and wrapping the fabric back around it before pinning in place.

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Once the sides were pinned, I fiddled around a lot with the placement of the pleats until they fell as straight as I could get them.

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I couldn’t sew the fabric and lining together until I was happy with that, or I’d just have to rip it out again.

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Folding under the raw edges in preparation for hemming.

Since, after all of my futzing with the pleats, the lining edges and fabric edges don’t line up exactly at the very bottom, I both top stitched the edges and hemmed. This ensures that the edges stay nice and sharp, and the fabric doesn’t balloon away from the lining oto much.

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The finished pieces ready for the waistband. I swear that pincord wrinkles if you look at it.

Since the waistband won’t be seen at all in the finished costume, I was able to just top stitch it shut instead of doing a nice slip stitch, which saved a bit of time.

Here’s the progress so far (sans pants since the dressform doesn’t do that):

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Maybe steaming those darn drapes will get the wrinkles out. It seems like every time I set them down and pick them up again, they’re a mess!

There won’t be a blog next week, since I’ll be too busy getting ready for our Halloween party to get much done, plus it’ll give the final materials a chance to get here. There’s not much I can do until the seam binding and beads arrive! Things should really get fun once that happens!

See you in November,

Hannah

 

 

 

Snow White Riding Outfit 2: A Change for the Better

I wasn’t sure whether I would be able to get this post out on time, since there has been an enormous change of plans! Last week, after I posted the blog, a reader who has made the costume before told me where I can find the screen accurate fabric (Robert Allen’s Diamond Tuft upholstery fabric). At the beginning of my research, I had tried to look for the fabric using many combinations of the words “diamond” “upholstery” “fabric” “suede” “velvet” “velveteen”, etc… but it somehow never entered my mind to simply search for “screen accurate snow white fabric”. Turns out many people had already done the work for me!

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So, I’ve scrapped the quilting (which was about to drive me up the wall anyway), for the real thing! Luckily I am both small and short, so I was able to order just one yard of the 54″ wide fabric. This meant I got to order it right away, instead of waiting for my next check. I laid out the fabric on the floor in many configurations and used a measuring tape to make sure I could fit it all in before I ordered.

It only took it a few days to arrive and I got cutting.

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It’s amazing how easily a jacket goes together when you’ve been psyching yourself up for weeks of quilting, and then having to deal with the hand-quilted fabric.

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The infamous curved dart before pressing.
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And a finished front piece with both darts.

I didn’t interface the body pieces, because I want them to be nice and flexible, but I did back the sleeves, collar, and bottom tabs with canvas so that they are sturdy and don’t flop or crumple too much.

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First I pinned the canvas to the fabric.
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Then I trimmed the canvas away from the seam allowance, since I don’t want the seams to be double thick.
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I stitched along the top and the bottom, inside where the binding will go on the edges.
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I catch stitched the loose edges to keep them from getting bent out of shape inside the sleeve. After this first one, I did this before sewing the sleeve into a tube.
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The completed (sans lining and binding) lower and upper sleeves.

I was away in Cincinnati with Brandon visiting our friend Melissa this weekend, so I wasn’t sure how much of the jacket I would actually have done at this point, but we got home around four, and I went for it! It was so exciting to see it all coming together!

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The front and backs put together.

I backed the tabs in the same way as the sleeves, though since I was only leaving one short edge loose, I didn’t bother to catch stitch.

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The backing and lining of the collar are cut in single pieces, but the outer fabric I cut as two pieces so that I could line up the diamonds exactly how I wanted them. Once the collar is attached and the edges are bound there should the center of a diamond (and one of the dangling beads) right where it all comes together.

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Pressing the collar seam.

I took this picture to check that the edges of the collar were falling where I wanted them, and ended up trimming them back a bit more.

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With the collar attached, it’s time to add the final component: the tabs.

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The are all just a little bit detached from each other to leave room for the belt to cinch everything in a bit.

The jacket is now definitely a jacket! I have ordered faux leather seam binding for the edges in what I hope will be a close color, if not I will paint it. It’s easy to find white, and easy to find tan, but it turns out that finding a good off-white is not so easy!

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In the meantime, I can work on the pants and on the large skirt pieces, as the fabric for those got here at the end of the week. The beads that I ordered are also on their way. This might just happen by the end of the month after all!

Tune in next week!

Hannah